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REVIEWING THE BASICS OF ONE OF ITALY’S MOST BELOVED REGIONS
by Lars Leicht
Pretty much anywhere in the world, the true beauty of wine country lies in its infinite variables, among them exposure, slopes, soils, microclimate, varieties, vine training, winemaking styles, and even historical factors, particularly in terms of terroir. Considering it all, the Italian region of Valpolicella may be the poster child for variability.
Let’s just start with the fact that the zone spans not just one valley but nearly a dozen: From west to east, there are Fumane, Marano, Negrar, Quinzano, Avesa, Valpantena, Squaranto, Marcellise, Mezzane, Illasi, and Tramigna. In addition to those, there are the Sant’Ambrogio and San Pietro in Cariano townships, located just below the Fumane, Marano, and Negrar valleys; together, these five areas are distinguished as the “Valpolicella DOC Classico,” the most historic production area. By Italian government decree in 1968, the broader “Valpolicella DOC” was established. To add to the mix, another area within the broader DOC was given its own denomination, Valpolicella DOC Valpantena, for the distinctive characteristics of its wines. It lies to the east of Classico and directly north of the city of Verona, the zone’s fulcrum.
One of the distinguishing factors of the Classico area is that it lies directly south of Monti Lessini, essentially making up its foothills; in the northernmost reaches of the zone, cool Alpine winds prevail; but the warming effects of Lake Garda to the west and the fertile plains of the Adige River to the south play their role at lower altitudes. So does vicinity to the Adriatic, less than 80 miles away from the westernmost limits of the DOCG and 60 miles from the eastern limits of the DOC area.
Of course, where there are valleys, there are mountains. Between Valpolicella’s valley floors at 200–300 feet above sea level and the highest mountain ranges at upwards of 2,100 feet, you have hills, high hills, medium slopes, and low slopes, all with different soil types and aspects. Winemakers contend that the afternoon sun’s impact on west-facing vineyards yields more intensely flavored grapes than those from east-facing sites and vineyards that bask in milder morning sun. The slopes are separated by streams rather than rivers and could be better described as wrinkles than valleys. Not particularly steep, they are terraced with stone walls called “marogne” [mah-ROHN-yay]. The whole landscape could perhaps best be described as a hand with its fingertips flat on a surface, knuckles and wrist slightly raised.
Despite frequent claims about it meaning “Valley of Many Cellars,” some argue that the name Valpolicella probably derives from the soil types pushed down by the migration of northern glaciers. In the 16th century, the area was commonly known as “Vallis Pulicellae,” literally meaning the valley of alluvial deposits. In Latin, “pullus” is an adjective for dark, referring here to alluvial soils filled with sand and pebbles. Valpolicella’s foothills are essentially the stop line for shifting glaciers that left the plains to the south untouched.
The majority of grapes grown in the area —some 97%—are indigenous varieties. The most widely planted by far at 60% is Corvina, which is justly called “the Queen of Valpolicella.” Next are Rondinella (21%) and Corvinone (13%), followed by a small showing (6%) of other indigenous varieties such as Molinara, Oseleta, and Croatina. Only 3% of the region’s vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but these grapes have grown here so long that their character has become more Veronese than international.
Legally, Valpolicella blends call for a minimum of 45% (and maximum of 95%) for Corvina, which above all contributes aroma as well as color, tannins, structure, and acidity. Recently the denomination was changed to permit the same 45% minimum and 95% maximum for Corvinone. Though similar in name, there is no genetic relation between the two; Corvinone grapes are physically bigger—hence the Italian suffix “-one” (pronounced OH-ney), indicating large—and a greater contributor of the aforementioned characteristics. Both are named for a black bird (crow and large crow) because of the dark color of their skin. This also applies to Rondinella, which translates into swallow and brings plenty of color, sapidity, acidity, and tannin to the blend, despite lacking aromatic influence. There must be a minimum of 5% Rondinella (and a maximum of 30%) in Valpolicella.
That may seem like a lot of variation for one wine, but we’re actually talking about four distinct expressions made from the same blend: Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, and Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. They are all Valpolicella, but they are all different.
Here’s the breakdown in a nutshell. Valpolicella is the straightforward vintage wine, traditionally vinified and given little (if any) aging, depending on house style. Amarone is a dry wine made by essentially air-drying the grapes for three months and slowly fermenting with lengthy skin contact the following January; this process is followed by moderate to lengthy aging in cask. Ripasso takes a young Valpolicella and “re-passes” it over the pressings of Amarone or Recioto to give it more structure. And finally, Recioto results when Amarone isn’t allowed to ferment out completely dry; in fact, it was the historic method for making wine from dried grapes, and in ancient times, it competed with sweeter Greek wines on the lucrative market of the Venetian Republic. Only marketed commercially since the 1950s, Amarone (remember that “-one” suffix) means “big bitter (dry) one” and was once considered a mistake that resulted from trying to make the sweeter Recioto.
Now, about that drying process, which is referred to in Italian as appassimento. The healthiest grapes are chosen and harvested slightly underripe so that they have greater acidity; after they are gently laid out in open wood boxes or, increasingly, easier-to-clean versions made of aerated plastic, they’re set up in well-ventilated attics called fruttaio and constantly monitored. Since the grapes are still on the stem, the latter performs its function as part of the now detached central nervous system responsible for nourishment, like an umbilical cord. Knowing it is cut off from the mother vine, the stem puts in place a “flight or fight” reaction that changes the metabolism of the grapes, which in turn impacts anthocyanins, flavonoids, acids, and stilbenes, which are a precursor to resveratrol.
This happens with other grapes such as Cabernet and Merlot as well: They too will lose 40% of their water weight and gain intensity and concentration, but more quickly and with less of a physiological change. The indigenous Veronese grapes inherently lend themselves to appassimento.
Appassimento provides yet another variable for the winemaker. Even if the growing season offered up perfect conditions through harvest, a rainy start to winter can negate those prospects. Nobody wants a damp fruttaio!
So, will you ever think of Valpolicella as a “simple” wine again?
Valpolicella: A Sampler Pack
At SommCon San Diego last November, the Consorzio Tutela Vini Valpolicella offered up a master class on its regional wines. Nine producers sent their wines as examples for the class to taste.
[/vc_column_text][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]Bertani 2018 Valpolicella
From one of the region’s most historic producers, with a history of groundbreaking initiatives. Bright cherry, light spicy notes, and a crisp, zesty finish. Corvina Veronese (80%) and Rondinella (20%) from Valpolicella Classico and Valpantena. Concrete vats for five months. 12% ABV.
Corte Cavedini 2018 Valpolicella
A small family estate winery run by Umberto Cavedini and his wife, son, and daughter. Great cherry notes with a round, velvety mouthfeel. Corvina-Corvinone (70%), Rondinella (15%), Croatina-Merlot-Oseleta (15%) from Marcellise, and San Martino Buon Albergo. Stainless steel for six months. 12.5% ABV.
Ca Dei Maghi 2018 Valpolicella Classico
Made by third-generation hillside growers now dedicated to their own label. Intense, with cherry, raspberry, and other forest berries. Corvina (45%), Corvinone (30%), Rondinella (20%), and Molinara (5%) from Fumane. Stainless steel for six months. 13% ABV.
Villa Mattielli 2017 Valpolicella Superiore
From a new property on the eastern reaches of Valpolicella bordering Soave. Fresh and mouthwatering, with intense notes of red fruit alongside light tannins. Corvina (60%), Corvinone (20%), and Rondinella (20%) from Lavagno. Stainless steel for six months. 13.5% ABV.
Secondo Marco 2016 Valpolicella Classico
The scion of a historic producer, Marco Speri now oversees his own vineyards and cellar. Juicy dark cherry with notes of herbs and dried flowers. Corvina (50%), Corvinone (40%), Rondinella (5%), and Molinara (5%) from Fumane. Six months in both concrete and barrel. 13% ABV.
Villa San Carlo 2016 Campo Bianco Valpolicella Superiore
The Pavesi family started growing grapes on its wooded property in 1958; a decade ago, they launched their own label. Intense red fruit with spices and light balsamic notes. Corvina (40%), Corvinone (40%), Rondinella (15%), and Molinara (5%) from Montorio Veronese. French oak barrels for four months. 13.5% ABV.
Sartori di Verona 2015 Estate Selection Valpolicella Classico Superiore
From a fourth-generation winegrower with classic style. Deep flavors of black cherry with some earthy tones; structured with rich fruit and soft tannins. Corvina (45%), Corvinone (40%), Rondinella (20%), and Croatina (5%) from the Valpolicella Classico area. Oak casks for 15 months. 13.5% ABV.
Novaia 2016 I Cantoni Valpolicella Classico Superiore
Four generations of the Vaona family have farmed grapes for their label (exempting a brief interruption in the 20th century). Deep, concentrated jammy flavors. Corvina (50%), Corvinone (30%), Rondinella (15%), and “other” (5%) from Marano. Stainless steel 10 months, bottle 2 months. 14% ABV.
Ilatium 2015 Campo Prognài Valpolicella Superiore
From another family who started growing grapes for a cooperative until founding their own winery. Intense ripe fruit, minerality, and spice. Corvina/Corvinone (70%), Rondinella (20%), Croatina/others (10%) from Mezzane di Sotto and Valle d’Illasi. French and American oak barrels for 12–15 months. 15% ABV.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/3″][vc_column_text]THE VANGUARD OF VALPOLICELLA
Active for over 80 years, the Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini Valpolicella represents 305 companies that bottle or make renowned Veronese wines, a supply chain that includes 7 cooperative cellars and 2,334 grape growers. In constant contact with producers and keenly in touch with the area, the consortium has become the main reference for those who wish to discover the Valpolicella region and its wines.
In addition to its role in safeguarding the rules and traditions of the appellation, the Consortium is responsible for promoting, at home and abroad, the wines of Valpolicella: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC and Valpolicella DOC.
PREVIEW AND EDUCATION: A key part of the consortium’s promotional activities includes the “Anteprima Amarone,” a three-day series of tastings and events for national and international trade and press. The “Anteprima,” or preview, marks the pending market release of the latest vintage of Amarone wine after its minimum three years combined aging in barrel and bottle. The consortium also hosts a three-day intensive scholastic program called the “Valpolicella Education Program,” complete with lectures by noted authorities, homework assignments, a final exam and graduation certificate.
VALPOLICELLA IN NUMBERS: Valpolicella is the top red denomination of origin wine in the Veneto region and considered among the most important in Italy. On a regional level, it comes second only to Prosecco as one of Italy’s highest grossing products, confirmed at 23,000 euro per hectare for the 2018 harvest. Both the area under vine and the production potential continue to grow. Over the past 20 years, Valpolicella vineyard space has doubled to reach 8187 hectares in 2018. Last year, almost 60 million bottles of Valpolicella wines (Valpolicella, Amarone, Recioto and Ripasso), were produced for a value of approximately 600 million euros per year (Italy’s highest for any denominational product) with Amarone alone generating slightly more than half of that figure. Of the over 107,000 tons of grapes harvested in 2018, roughly 1/3 (37,000 tons) were allocated for “Appassimento,” the drying process used to make Amarone and Recioto.
Valpolicella wine is in an overall positive state with constant growth, especially for Amarone. Considered the “King of Valpolicella,” its US sales represent 15% of its total export business, just behind Germany, the top market at 16%. In fact, under the consortium’s watch Veronese wines, which account for 70% of the Veneto region’s production, have registered 45.7% growth over the past five years. Overall, the US represents about ¼ of the total export sales for Italian wine. “The US market is vital,” said Olga Bussinello, director of the Consorzio Vini Valpolicella. “We must continue our work to improve consumer perception and positioning of our wines, especially considering our good fortune to have been spared the trade tariffs that impacted other products made in Italy. We have excellent wines, and room to grow!”[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]
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