story by Kim Kachmar and Nataliya Georgieva
When most people think of Old World wines, they think of the classics: France, Italy, Spain. But there is another side to the Old World—let’s call it the “Ancient Old World.” This includes countries in which winemaking originated but which aren’t as globally known as their Western European counterparts. That is, until recently. It started with the rise to fame of Georgian wines, which proved that a desire for natural, cloudy, and unique varietal wines existed; this has paved the way for other Ancient Old World regions to step onto the world stage, among them Bulgaria—and it’s time we start to pay attention.
Boutique Bulgarian wine is currently difficult to find in the U.S., but we are on a mission to change that. We met while working together at Calvert Woodley Fine Wines and Spirits in Washington, D.C., where we bonded over pizza and Champagne, sharing our experiences as women in the industry. At the time, Nataliya was beginning to make plans to import wine from her home country. Fast forward to June 2020, when we popped open a bottle of Georgiev/Milkov Thracian Valley Rubin from Nataliya’s first shipment. With one sip, it was immediately clear to Kim that Bulgarian wine has the power to captivate the industry, especially younger generations who are generally more open to trying different styles of wine—not only because it tastes good, but also because Bulgarian wine has a fascinating heritage.
The winemaking history of Bulgaria dates back to the Thracians, who were making wine there as early as 4,000 BC. In fact, production was so prolific that it’s mentioned in Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey. Given this, one might ask why Bulgarian wine isn’t already world-famous. The answer is complicated and deeply political.
The story of wine production in Bulgaria is one of many ups and downs. After the country was liberated from the Ottomans in the late 19th century, production was extensively funded by the Soviet Union. Although it increased, with an unfortunate shift toward quantity over quality, Bulgarian wine didn’t reach the Western world, being exported instead to countries within the Union. When the USSR fell, the wine industry rapidly declined from lack of funding. It is only in the past 20 years that a small group of passionate vintners and winemakers have begun to rebuild the industry, focusing on sustainability, quality, cultural tradition, and authenticity born of native grape varieties (it’s worth noting that excellent wines based on international grape varieties are also being produced). Many producers, like Georgiev/Milkov, are also putting an emphasis on low-intervention, natural, organic, and skin-contact wines.
Present-day Bulgaria features five official wine regions: the Danube Plain in the north (which focuses on white wines); the Black Sea Coast to the east; the Thracian Valley in the south (which makes mostly red wines); the Struma Valley in the southwest; and the Rose Valley, which is squeezed in between the northern and southern regions. In general, the former experience a continental climate, the latter a Mediterranean one. The Thracian Valley is arguably the most important region and is a great starting point when visiting.
Thanks to a wealth of distinctive native varieties, there are so many flavors for enophiles to discover:
Mavrud (mah-VROOD): This standout grape produces a strong Cab-like wine with firm tannins, high acidity, and aromas ranging from blackberries to tea. When aged, it develops savory tobacco and leather flavors and competes with the classics.
Rubin (ROO-bean): This cross of Nebbiolo and Syrah was created at the Institute of Viticulture and Oenology in Pleven, Bulgaria. Lighter than yet just as striking as Mavrud, it boasts ample red-berry, violet, and pepper aromas.
Gamza (GAHM-zah): This red grape grows best in cooler climates and is mainly cultivated in northern Bulgaria. Its thin skin makes it similar to Pinot Noir, but the flavor profile differs greatly. Gamza offers a balanced, dynamic profile of wild berries and herbs; a light body; and delicate tannins.
Red Misket (red MIS-ket): This white grape, which holds immense cultural value in Bulgaria, gets its name from the pinkish color of its skin. It produces a dry yet richly floral wine with notes of rose and violet as well as tropical fruits. Its full body is balanced by acidity that keeps the aromatics fresh.
While many wine lovers will enjoy the novelty of these grape varieties, what stands to attract most is the fact that Bulgaria brings a diverse and delicious perspective to the wine world, one that we’re eagerly awaiting our favorite local wine establishments to adopt soon.
Kim Kachmar is the owner of Together With Wine, a wine-education and -media company that empowers wine lovers to drink for themselves and supports the industry with social media marketing services. Visit @togetherwithwine and togetherwithwine.com.
Nataliya Georgieva is the owner of Bohemish Wine Imports, currently distributing in Washington, D.C., and Maryland with New Jersey, New York, and Illinois soon to come. Visit @bohemishwines and bohemishwines.com.
