by Erik Segelbaum
I must have been sick that day in sommelier school when we learned the “rules” of rosé. Apparently, rosé is only good when consumed between May and August in its current vintage. I recently overheard a sales rep apologizing to a wine bar owner that she was showing a 2019, suggesting that she would understand if he didn’t want it because it wasn’t 2020. It’s amazing to me that sommeliers influence virtually every wine-drinking trend yet seem powerless when it comes to espousing the virtues of quality rosé.
Pink wine may be the only category that people drink for the color alone. Think about it: Nobody ever orders “a glass of white,” yet I rarely hear guests ask for anything but “a glass of rosé”—they don’t inquire about its region of origin, the grapes it’s made from, or the winemaking methods used. Conversely, the only wines I have ever seen guests regularly reject have been darker rosés such as Tavel— because they incorrectly equate the hue with sweetness.
Speaking of myths, the misconception that rosés are at their best on release is widespread—despite the fact that most of the world’s best rosés are better with age. Rioja producer R. López de Heredia doesn’t release its rosé for nearly a decade, and the results are mind-blowingly delicious. In my experience, most rosés don’t start to show nuance and integration unitl they are at least three or four years old.
Perhaps most maddening of all is the notion of “rosé season.” Please, never use that expression. In reality, most rosés have more year-round utility at the dinner table than many popular white wines.
Rosé continues to show exponential category growth, so you should definitely be capitalizing on its popularity. It doesn’t matter if your restaurant has a tiny wine program or a huge one: To improve your bottom line, you should pour at least two different styles of rosé by the glass at price points separated by at least a few dollars. If you only have one, the question is simply “Rosé or not rosé?”; if you have multiple expressions, then it shifts to “Which rosé is right for my guest?” You can train your staff to discuss their distinctions in easy-to-understand terms—explaining that one is more berry forward and savory while the other has more citrus and mineral notes is a way to ensure that the conversation is all about the guest’s preferences, not their wallet. And if you run a larger program, don’t be afraid to offer a third rosé at a premium price. Sancerre rosé can easily fetch $18–$20 a glass in the right market, as can some well-established Provençal brands.
By the bottle, you should also have a variety of rosés at multiple price points, including a few premium options, rather than a collection of similar wines at similar prices. Producers are often surprised when I tell them that, though I love their rosé, it’s too inexpensive. The last thing I need is yet another bottle for less than $12 wholesale; on the contrary, I’m always searching for quality rosés in the $20–$50 wholesale range so that I can maximize category revenue.
Sommeliers, it’s up to you to have a wellbalanced, year-round rosé program—and to help guests understand that they should put some think into drinking pink.
