by Liz Thach, MW
Many experts will tell you that one of the most challenging foods to pair with wine is asparagus, yet during spring, fresh asparagus makes frequent appearances on menus throughout Sonoma County: At the newly relaunched Farmhouse Inn in Sonoma County, California, it doesn’t just appear just once but in three of the seven courses of the seasonal prix-fixe dinner.
“Chef Craig Wilmer keeps me on my toes because he is very creative and enjoys changing the menu seasonally,” said Jared Hooper, wine director and sommelier at the Farmhouse Inn. “Some of the dishes are challenging to pair with wine, but it’s a pleasure to work with him because I enjoy playing around with the pairings.” And Hooper seems to be quite successful at identifying wines from around the world to pair with the exotic and sometimes eclectic dishes, which resemble works of art and are served with deft professionalism by the well-trained staff.
“Our theme is ‘local meets luxury,’” restaurant supervisor Akram Buhary stated during my recent visit—the first since the restaurant reopened one year ago after being shuttered during the pandemic.
The space is small and intimate, with 12 white marble–topped tables beneath ornate wood chandeliers; dove grey walls with large mirrors; a bookshelf of wine; a two-story fireplace; and a colorful farm mural that borders the ceiling.
Once the proud bearer of a Michelin star for 14 years, the Farmhouse Inn is one of many restaurants that lost its star during the pandemic when the chef departed. When I asked if they were trying to regain their star, I was told it was not their goal—but after experiencing the seven-course prix-fixe dinner with wine pairings that eclipsed many of my other restaurant experiences, I had to wonder.
Chef Craig Wilmer’s Creations and Farmer’s Fizz
The creative cuisine at Farmhouse Inn features locally sourced organic vegetables from the Kendall-Jackson garden farm and cheeses from across Sonoma County; other items are imported from Asia, such as delicious black caviar from China and fresh seafood flown in from Japan.
Due to the plentiful use of seasonal vegetables, including asparagus, Hooper’s self-proclaimed “go-to wine” was grower Champagne. “I call it farmer’s fizz because it is made by the local grape growers in Champagne and has so much character,” he explained. “Plus, as most people know, bubbles are an excellent pairing with many dishes.”
One of the restaurant’s signature dishes—an artful arrangement of asparagus, shrimp sauce, and deep-fried morel mushrooms stuffed with shrimp and served on stunning hand-painted plates from Germany—resembles a painting of impressionist artist Claude Monet’s garden and is fittingly called the “Ring of Spring.” Hooper wisely paired it withtheHervieux-Dumez Hilde Sacy Premier Cru Brut Rosé Champagne, which stood up to the savory mushrooms and shrimp while elevating the vegetables.
Another showstopper was the Sonoma County squab, prepared in the same fashion as Peking duck. Incredibly moist and flavorful, it was served with tiny Chinese pancakes, pickled vegetables, and a dipping sauce. Hooper paired it with Radio-Coteau 2016 Dusty Lane Sonoma Coast Syrah, whose dark berry and earthy notes were the perfect foil for the dish.
However, the bizarre part of the course was the tiny slice of squab head—complete with its beak and eye— that lay flat on the plate so that you could gently extract the brains that were supposed to taste like bone marrow. Though I tried to convince myself to eat it (after all, I’ve dined on insects in both Africa and Vietnam), I just couldn’t do it. So I asked the table next to me how it tasted: “There is no way I’m going to eat bird brains” was the response. However, there are probably other diners who will find the experience to be exhilarating.
Other highlights of the tasting menu included blue fin tuna, Japanese tile fish, fresh California Dungeness crab with avocado, asparagus with artichoke and dill sauce, seaweed pasta, and exquisite oysters with a cream sauce. Altogether, Hooper served seven different wines and one saké; in addition to the two Champagnes and the Syrah noted above, he has a tendency to focus on light and crisp white wines, such as a Chenin Blanc from the Loire, an aromatic white blend from Alto Adige, and a Chablis. The dessert course was served with a rare magnum of Château Raymond-Lafon 2005 Sauternes—one of just eight bottles in the U.S.
Later in the meal, Wilmer came out to greet the guests. He had a youthful appearance in his white apron, with artful tattoos adorning his arms. “I am inspired by local, French, and Asian cuisines—and especially by my time working with Dominique Crenn at Petit Crenn restaurant and her use of umami flavors,” said Wilmer. He also made sure to credit his wife and Farmhouse Inn’s pastry chef, Amanda Hoang, “whose Asian heritage and creativity is a constant source of delight.”
The Incredible Talent of Pastry Chef Amanda Hoang
As the relaxed and fascinating meal entered its third hour, I was reminded again of how fine dining with inspirational wine pairings is like sitting in the front row of a magnificent ballet and interactive play, all woven into one experience. It is a special moment in time that lingers in your memory for years.
Dessert, along with several amuse-bouches, started arriving at the table. Along with them came Hoang, who described her inspiration for the mooncake with caramel apple filling made from Pink Lady apples from Sonoma County. “I was inspired by my Asian relatives, who are Taiwanese and Vietnamese. So for the mooncake, I use a very light pastry, roll it up, add spices, and then cut it so it has a rose pattern on the top,” she explained. The dish was not only stunning to witness but scrumptious, with a spicy caramel dipping sauce. Hooper paired it with the magnum of sweet Sauternes that made the experience even more celestial.
It turns out that Hoang also made the sesame seed bread served with a dreamy, soft salted butter blended with crème. The cleanser course of California kiwi sorbet with a yogurt topping made from local cheese and dried, candied Buddha’s hands were also part of her repertoire: It looked like a miniature work of art.
The full tasting experience at Farmhouse Inn is priced at $425 per person for seven courses with wine pairings (or $275 without). It is completely worth it to meet the highly entertaining Hooper and witness his talents as a steward of wine.
Dr. Liz Thach, MW, is a wine writer, professor, and president of the Wine Market Council. She has won multiple awards for her nine wine books and over 300 published articles. She can be contacted at [email protected].